Mushroom dress I would probably try to think very carefully about the product’s entire life cycle.

A mushroom biologist explains why mushrooms are now all the rage
Merlin Sheldrake’s book inspired a clothing line. This is what he would do with the reins of a fashion house.

A collection of three mushrooms dress with red

, white dotted caps on the forest floor.
Spring 2022 seems to be mushroom season. Fashion shows in recent years have highlighted fungal mycelium – the underground root-like network from which fungi grow – and the “leather” that can be made from these threads.

This season, designers are applying images of mushrooms to everything from handbags to overalls. You can even buy mushroom-inspired accessories, like a green mushroom pendant

While the mushroom’s fruiting body, the above-ground “mushroom part,” is having its moment, we spoke to mushroom dress biologist Merlin Sheldrake,

author of

“Entangled Life,”

which inspired the 2021 Iris Van Herpen collection, to explain why now is the time for “Mushroom” to shine and what he would do if he took the helm of one of these big fashion houses. The following interview has been edited and summarized for clarity.
Sarah Braner

: Why do you think mushroom dress are having a fashion moment right now?
Merlin Sheldrake: We know much more about fungi than we once did, in part because of the development of new technologies such as DNA sequencing, which have opened up the world of fungi and revealed the complexity and remarkable properties of these organisms.
And as the environmental emergency has worsened, awareness of the interconnectedness of our world has also grown. Fungi are truly powerful model organisms for ecological thinking. Ecology studies the relationships between organisms, and fungi provide physical connections between organisms,

embodying this basic principle of ecology.

Another point is the growing interest in psychedelics. Much of the recent research into psychedelics has been conducted with psilocybin, which is originally produced by mushroom dress. I believe that the remarkable effect of this fungal compound on our human senses has introduced many people to the world of fungi in general and all the remarkable things that fungi do in the biosphere.
They said it goes back to our current ecological crisis. Stella McCartney recently used something called

“sponge leather”,

a more durable form of leather, to make her clothes. Is this just a gimmick?
Molds are used to manufacture different types of materials. You can make building blocks and shelves from fungal mycelium [the “roots” that support a network of fungi], and you can make textiles from fungal mycelium – leathery textiles.

You can grow these materials in a short time, a few weeks, and you don’t have to kill any animals. You don’t have to cut down forests to create pastures for the animals you want to kill. There are many polluting industrial jobs that can be avoided, so they are promising.
A man in my support group offered me something that my husband could never do. It makes me think twice.

We’re getting another girl.

Different companies produce it in different ways. The patterns I saw looked and felt like animal leather. These materials are promising. You can grow mushroom leather on agricultural waste, corn stalks or wood chips that would otherwise be thrown away.

My husband just asked me to do the unthinkable.
Help! My husband and I argued about our messy house. Then he said something unforgivable.
I saw that you grew oyster mushrooms from the pages of your book (they looked like brown, hollow bookmarks that would swallow the entire book). Could you theoretically grow mushrooms or a mushroom network on a piece of clothing so that it actually grows on, say, your jacket?

You can grow mushrooms on an article of clothing,

but you probably wouldn’t want to wear them. Mushrooms are very volatile and therefore do not last long. It wouldn’t really be portable and it would grow fungus that would rot pretty quickly. I think it’s unlikely that people would take this approach to making shapewear.
Suppose you took over the management of one of these high fashion brands. What fungi or mushrooms would you apply to a garment or use as inspiration for another design?
I would probably try to think very carefully about the product’s entire life cycle.

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